Kyaiktiyo: The Golden Rock That Balances on a Hair

Kyaiktiyo:
The Golden Rock That Balances on a Hair

continued

With the picture round over, I sat for awhile to wait for sunset. I spent quite awhile just staring at the marvelous rock, which became more and more beautiful as the sun dimmed and the floodlights brought it to life. Then, just as I was about to take some sunset pictures-fog rolled in! Even the fog lent a magical quality to the place, but it didn't make for good pictures. At one point I passed a nat shrine just as someone sitting by it with a silver bowl full of small bills was asking for a donation. He said that I could make a wish if I did. I didn't want to appear rude, but the bills inside were of a very low denomination and I was afraid of offending by offering a small bill or appearing to show off if I offered too much. So I passed him by. It occurred to me that if I had made a wish it would have been for the fog to clear! Well, about five minutes later it did clear just long enough for me to get two photos of the golden rock at night. I regretted not giving a donation to the nat. If I had I would have told the man taking the donations about my wish coming true. When I came back in 20 years I would then find that the story would have been told and retold, and embellished into a long, elaborate story that would end with me dying and becoming a nat. There would undoubtedly be a nat shrine to me and I could become an egomaniac and worship myself (and keep the donations). I have a feeling that many Burmese stories begin that way.

With the fog rolling back in I contented myself with some rather good photos of people washing the Buddha statues and going about other forms of worship. When I finally decided to pull myself away I got out my flashlight and headed down the path. I found myself in the company of the pagoda hermit and a monk, who had several questions for me but neither spoke much English. At one point on the trek back the hermit pointed out his house, a cave in the valley below. The next morning I awoke to the fresh, cool mountain air. I had an urge to just stay there the rest of the trip had not the hot, humid heart of Myanmar beckoned with still more adventures.

Robert Wilson is an English teacher in northern Thailand. Pictures of his travels can be seen at photos.yahoo.com/robert_92122.